How to Hang Drywall Sheets Like a Pro: Tools, Tips, and Techniques

Whether you're remodeling a room or fixing a damaged wall, learning how to properly hang drywall can save you time, money, and headaches. I’ve hung drywall in everything from tight closets to 30 foot high ceilings all across DFW. One thing I can say for sure is that doing it right from the start can make all the difference.

Here’s a step-by-step guide based on the way we do it out in the field every day here in Dallas.

What You’ll Need to Hang Drywall

Before you start slapping sheets on the wall, here’s the basic gear you'll want to have on hand:

• Drywall sheets (aka sheetrock) – Most walls use 1/2" thick sheets but there are different sizes depending on your needs.

• Drywall lift or extra set of hands – Hanging ceilings without one is a workout.

• Screw gun or drill with drywall bit

• Drywall screws (1 1/4" or 1 5/8")

• T-square or chalk line for clean cuts

• Utility knife & drywall saw

• Tape measure

• Ladder or scaffold

  
  

Bonus: If you're in Dallas, Home Depot and Lowe's usually stock everything you need. Local supply stores will also have everything and they are open to the public. If you're in a pinch, I've even grabbed last-minute screws from local hardware shops around Dallas.

Step-by-Step: How We Hang Drywall

Starting to hang the first sheet of drywall in a high ceiling custom home.

1. Measure Twice, Cut Once

Take good measurements of the wall or ceiling area. Always cut your drywall sheet slightly smaller than the space to allow for minor shifts. This is especially true if you’re working on an older home in areas like Oak Cliff or East Dallas where walls may not be perfectly square.

Here is a picture of our team hanging sheetrock in a high ceiling. This was a custom home in North Dallas we did drywall for in 2023.

2. Start With the Ceiling

Ceilings always go first. Trust me, trying to fit ceiling sheets around wall pieces is a pain. If you're working solo, rent a drywall lift, I promise it’s worth every penny.

Pro Tip: I worked on a job in North Dallas where we used a lift for a vaulted ceiling. Without it, we would’ve taken three times as long.

3. Hang Horizontally on Walls

Hang the drywall sheets horizontally for better strength and fewer seams. Start from the top and work your way down. Use a screw every 12–16 inches along the studs, but don’t overtighten or you’ll crush the gypsum. Make sure you install them staggered to prevent cracking.

4. Cut Out for Outlets and Fixtures

Use a drywall saw or rotozip to cut clean openings. A tight fit here means less mudding later. I always trace the shape with a pencil before cutting to avoid costly mistakes.

5. Leave a Small Gap at the Bottom

Always leave about a half-inch gap between the drywall and the floor to prevent moisture absorption. Baseboards will cover this later.

Common Mistakes I See (and How to Avoid Them)

• Misaligned seams: This usually happens when people don’t stagger the drywall. Always offset the seams like bricks.

• Not enough screws: A sagging wall is often the result of under-securing the sheet. Use enough fasteners to make it solid.

• Overcutting holes: Cutting a hole too large for an outlet box or light fixture = frustration and extra patchwork.

Final Thoughts

Hanging drywall is one of those jobs that looks easy

until you try it. But if you’ve got patience, the right tools, and a solid game plan, you can definitely take it on.

If it ever feels like too much, especially if you're working on a ceiling or large room, give me a call. I’ve hung drywall in every corner of DFW and I’d be happy to take a look or give you a hand. I offer free estimates and always give you the straight-up truth on whether it’s DIY-friendly or worth handing off to a pro.